Italian Showmanship

This will be brief so as not to obscure the point.

The 2006 Masi Brolo di Campofiorin Veronese ($25-35) is a magnificent, appealing wine that will scratch your Italian, food-loving itch as well as satisfy your palate for unapologetic directness.  Italy meets the new world with a bang in this bottle, which leans more towards a young Amarone (without the heavy glycerine) than the six year old ripasso that it is.  Gorgeous.