2018 Miguel Torres Reserva Especial Cordillera Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley $20

Dark ruby in color with medium opacity and a pink-tinged rim, the nose on this is tightly wound, expressive of tart red fruit, and forecasting of pyrazines. (Almost) all of those promises come true on the palate, which is young-tasting, reserved, and sharper than the other ones in this line-up. The fine-grain tannic action takes center stage, while savory, lean fruit plays a more subtle role. This one still has some evolving to do in the bottle before it reveals its goods. And, sure enough, after 4-5 hours open, all that adolescent tension eases into a puzzle whose adult pieces finally fit together. Each of its best components come together in balance. Very, very good, and it's a mystery how they bottle this for $20. 93 points.

Technical stuff: A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Maipo Andes from vines planted in 1992 on the edge of the Pirque DO, at the foot of the mountain at a height of 792 m/2,600 feet. Nights here are very cool and the thermal range between day and night is considerable. Soils are colluvial and were created over a prior layer of alluvial matter: sand-clay loam, with sharp-edged, very restrictive rock. In this cool, sunny climate, Cabernet Sauvignon delivers red fruit, subtle spice and a juicy expression with vibrant acidity at the back of the mouth along with very finely grained tannins