93 Point Beautiful Oddball

Just returned from a trip to Montreal, where the wine selections are vastly different from here in the US. Notably, retailers and restaurants alike highlight organic/biodynamic wines in a way that is rare outside of hipster bodegas in Brooklyn. And, though pricing for spirits in Canada seems intent to curb consumption, many wines (French, in particular) are quite reasonably priced. Here's a terrific example:

2020 Vignoble Malidain Pinot Noir Loire Valley L'Aubriere $17
An oddball of a wine on its surface, the Loire is best known for Sancerre (sauvignon blanc) and Chinon (cabernet franc.) And when one thinks of French pinot noir, Burgundy immediately comes to mind. So, what's this winery in the Loire doing with pinot noir? Making magic. Light, alive, and energetically-enthusiastic with crunchy acidity, this is a brightly-flavored red you can see through. At just 12% ABV, its gulpability factor is high, though its complexity demands savoring. Little, if any, appears to be available in the US, but hopefully this example will encourage looking beyond the typical - and towards organically-farmed wines. 93 points (Purchased)