Cameleons: Chard & Cab

From the Bousquet family's vineyards in the highlands of Argentina's Tupungato comes this pair of no-brainers available exclusively at Total Wine. Both share a straddling of the line between old worlds and new, with a nod towards French sensibilities while showcasing high altitude (4,000 feet above sea level) terroir.

2022 Cameleon Signature Organic Chardonnay Tupungato Valley ($15) This young, organic white shows freshness in a straightforward character with the trappings of modernity: oak (not too much,) fleshiness (without gluttony,) and a creamy top. Think a Burgundian college student who just got back after spring break in NorCal and you'll have the idea.

2021 Cameleon Signature Organic Cabernet Sauvignon Tupungato Valley ($20) Absolute textbook South American cabernet: lean green-tinged black fruit framed by balanced acidity and just a whisper of reserved oak. Pair with all the usual food suitors now or cellar for 5-10 years.