Napa and
Sonoma get the lion's share of notoriety in California. Santa Barbara and Paso
Robles have been on the rise for the last few decades, too, but the days of
describing those winegrowing regions as "what Napa was like 30 years
ago" are long gone. Which is why, when asked by friends what wineries to
visit in Napa, my typical response is to ask, "Any chance I could talk you
into going someplace else?"
Like many states and countries known for their wine, California has plenty of hidden gems tucked into charming, overlooked pockets of countryside. It's in these places where you're far more likely to engage with the people who actually grow and make the wine you're tasting, as opposed to someone from the marketing department. You're also far more likely to find authenticity and value in the bottles.
Run by the father/son due of Tom and Rob Sinton, they farm
about half of their acreage to Rhone, Italian and Spanish grapes, dedicating
the rest to gardens and forest. The vineyards are planted as high as 2,400
feet, which contributes to a cooler growing environment. That, in turn,
translates to lighter, fresher-tasting wines with acidity you might normally
associate with European alpine wines. The Ponderosa pine, Incense cedar, and
Douglas fir forests dominating the area lend a flavor profile known colloquially
as Sierra Spice, and this is absolutely reflected in the wines, giving them a
distinct character.
Loamy soil from the mourvedre vineyard on the left and Sierra Spice on the right.
A handful of samples made for interesting exploration - and
inspiration for further experimentation with other wines from Starfield and El
Dorado County. The following were most intriguing to me.
2024 Starfield Vineyards White Blend Hope Rising El Dorado
($36)
When most wine drinkers thing of Rhone blends, Chateauneuf
du Pape might readily come to mind. But what other wine nerds know is that the
blends of the region's white varieties offer overlooked complexity and drinking
enjoyment. Thankfully, the alchemy of mixing marsanne, roussanne, and viognier
translates equally well to this side of the Atlantic. More consonant than
vowel, this mix lacks not one bit of interest and offers expressive character
that's sure to lure even the shyest of winos. Viognier, though just a small
share of the recipe, plays an outsized role. Yay. (181 cases made; 45%
Marsanne, 45% Roussanne, 10% Viognier)
A surprise right from the cork's pull, this light-hued red
has a beautiful color with more translucence than any domestic pinot noir, and
legs that seem to make their languid way down the sides of the glass. Very
floral automatics, with high-toned spices that lead into a palate that is
anything but shy. Here, acidity meets gregarious fruit flavor, framed by
textured tannins and powdery oak. Quite a lot to pack in, especially at just
14.1% ABV. Left open to breath and on day two, the oak penetrates through the
lithe frame more forcefully, so why wait? Yum. (378 cases made; 100% Grenache)
2023 Starfield Vineyards Mourvedre El Dorado ($42)
What a beautiful wine. Luminescent color moves with agility
in the glass, from which inviting aromas of cherry chocolate and cedar emanate.
In the mouth, it offers a full spectrum light show of pleasing flavors, and
sticking to the middle ground of body and density, but, wow, the whole spice
rack is represented here to great effect. There's a little bit of sharpness on
opening, so best to decant this one for a bit to let that blow off. Very good,
indeed. (2023 Mourvedre 342 cases made; 99% Mourvedre, 1% Roussanne)
2023 Starfield Vineyards Red Blend Miner's Inch El Dorado
($38)
Decanting helps this red unwind, and when it does, it's one
to curl up next to the fireplace with. Deep garnet color and aromatic that
epitomize Sierra Spice beckon from the glass. Soft texture and contoured edges
give this balanced wine shape, while each of it composition grapes contribute
their own comfort. Easy-going, versatile, and precise. Well-made. (208 cases
made; 30% Grenache, 17% Aglianico, 14% Tempranillo, 14% Petite Sirah, 9%
Mourvedre, 9% Cinsaut, 4% Roussanne)