Energetic and expressive, this extraordinary example of blanco tequila doesn't drink like a blanco at all. Full bodied and concentrated, the Fortaleza Still Strength ($69-129) hides its high proof behind a kaleidoscope of honest flavors that channel hardscrabble hillsides and well-timed harvesting, rather than any sort of monkey business in the distilling process. No weird cream or vanilla here, just pure agave electricity. Expensive, and worth every penny. 95 points. (Prices appear to vary widely from market to market.)
