From largely dry-farmed vineyards planted in 1971 by the founders and still-current owners comes the 2022 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District ($70) Before getting into the wine itself, a couple of notes on why this is worth your consideration. First, long-tme readers will recognize Smith-Madrone as a regular name on these pages, thanks to the extraordinary consistency of their wines. That's not to say that they turn out the same-tasting wines year after year, but that quality and character is remarkably dependable, even while reflecting whatever hand Mother Nature deals from vintage to vintage. There's also the value, which, at $70, might be hard for many to square with the term "value." But according to the most recent DTC report, the average price of a bottle of Napa cab has surpassed $100. And that does not account for quality, which is more variable than ever.
Onto the wine.
Deep, deep garnet color with beautiful translucence, this cabernet moves in the glass with athletic agility. Giving it a whiff, gregarious dark red and black fruit comes at you framed by forest aromatics in the summer; cedar bark, dried conifers, and maybe even some sagebrush. On the palate it comes across with much brighter, high-toned notes, channeling freshness and floral character. This sits a top a seamless, easy-going texture and an elegant framework of acidity. The overall composition makes for an accessible, lithe cabernet, enjoyable even on a warm summer evening. Given the opportunity to decant for an hour or so, it relaxes somewhat, but doesn’t lose a drop of its grace. This is a quieter wine with nothing to prove, which allows its lovely poise to shine. Deeply satisfying without being overwhelming, the balance here will bode well for its longevity for those with the patience to cellar.
