This is the second batch of samples I've had the pleasure of tasting through from Starfield. And right away I had a sense of deja vu. Consistency in a winemaker's thumbprint has always impressed a sense of competence and intent, both of which show nively across these bottles.
Perched high in the Sierra foothills outside Placerville, Starfield’s estate sits mostly above 2,000 feet of elevation, with a patchwork of slopes and exposures that the winery has matched to an eclectic collection of grapes. Grenache occupies some of the highest ground, mourvèdre gets the long ripening season it needs, marsanne and its Rhône brethren inhabit cooler east-facing slopes. Even the sprawling Miner’s Inch blend is assembled from varieties grown in their respective sweet spots around the estate.
That sounds like the sort of thing you read in a fact sheet and promptly forget. Except you can taste it. Across this latest group of wines there’s the familiar recurring Sierra signature: crushed rock, pine and herbs, plenty of freshness, and fruit that generally plays nicely with everything else rather than demanding center stage.
All of which would be merely nerdy and interesting if the wines weren’t so pleasurable. These are distinctive, sometimes quirky wines that manage to give you plenty to contemplate while making it awfully easy to just drink them. Note the limited quantities these wines are made in, which is why you're best off ordering directly from them.
2024 Starfield Vineyards Marsanne El Dorado ($36)
There’s a gaggle of Rhône white varieties; viognier, rousanne, marsanne, grenache blanc… certainly each has its own distinguishing qualities, but they also share an interesting characteristic. On approach, there’s a vitality from the fruit that channels to the forefront without the sweetness or body of the fruit itself. Alongside that aspect, which could be described as minerality, is a consonant slate that is as featured as any other quality. It’s not for everyone. It’s not even for me all the time, particularly when that slate takest center stage and overpowers the fruit and minerals. But when all of these quirky, nerdy things coming into balance, it makes for one of the most underappreciated group of white wine grapes on the planet. Case in point is this gem. See the notes above for all it exudes, but this sophisticate isn’t just for hipsters and sommeliers. It’ll appeal to a wide range of imbibers whose minds and palates are open to something different, and it will also knock your socks off with food. 72 cases made.
2024 Starfield Vineyards White Blend El Dorado 'Hope Rising' ($36)
A white that's as quaffable as it is cerebral. Just as last vintage was, this blend shows crushed rocks underlying complex fruit that's at first coy, but opens as it relaxes. Easy to drink on its own, but a wine that'll reveal even more phenomenal character with food. 181 cases made
2023 Starfield Vineyards Mourvedre El Dorado ($42)
Yes, please! This is a red that is at once hedonistic and balanced. Beautiful clarity and translucent garnet, the bouquet surfaces Sierra spice and soft oak aromas. But in the mouth, it is plush, generous and eminently lovable. The density is medium weight, delivering full spectrum flavors and unfolding dimensions. An hour decanted does wonders to reveal everything this has to offer, which is an abundance. 342 cases made
2023 Starfield Vineyards Grenache El Dorado ($42)
Coming out of the bottle with a pale and beautiful color, this tasty and versatile red exudes all kinds of gold country characteristics: Woodsey cedar, solid backbone, and a nice dab of acidity. All this is framed with a dose of intricate green herbs and other forest character. But what is particularly distinguishing about this Granache is its lithe body/density. Same as the last time I tested it: very easy drinking and joyful. 378 cases made
2023 Starfield Vineyards Red Blend El Dorado 'Miner's Inch' ($38)
Surely it’s the time of year that brings the association to mind, but this has got to be the quintessential backyard barbecue wine. Versatile, plush, fruit forward, and dense enough to stand up to anything you pull off the grill. That said, it’s not some sort of monolithic monster. Not at all. Plenty of interesting nuance, no doubt thanks to the interesting blend of varieties here: Grenache, petite sirah, aglianico, tempranillo, cinsault, mourvèdre, and a couple of white grapes, too. Ready for near-term drinking, but could hang in the cellar for a few years, too. I suppose when taken in totality, it’s not just a backyard barbecue wine at all, but a Swiss Army knife of the polished, take anywhere sort. 208 cases made